For the birds

              U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

For the

Birds

Among the fondest and

most memorable

moments of childhood

are the discoveries of

songbirds nesting in

the backyard. The

distinctive, mud-lined

nests of robins and

their beautiful blue

eggs captivate people of

all ages. Likewise, the

nesting activities of

house wrens, cardinals,

chickadees and other

common birds can

stimulate a lifelong

interest in nature.

3

Introduction

As you learn to enjoy the beauty of

birdlife around their home, you may

wish to improve the “habitat” in your

yard so that more birds will visit

your property. You can attract birds

by placing bird feeders, nest boxes,

and bird baths in your yard, and by

planting a variety of trees, shrubs,

and flowers. These can provide good

nesting sites, winter shelter, places

to hide from predators and natural

food supplies that are available

year-round.

Backyard bird feeding is a

convenient way to enjoy wildlife.

More than 65 million Americans of

all ages watch, feed and landscape

for birds.

It doesn’t matter where you live—in

an apartment, townhouse or single

family dwelling, in the city, suburbs

or country. Just stand still and you’ll

hear them: wild birds. It is hard to

imagine life without them.

Bird watching is one of the fastest

growing forms of outdoor recreation

in the country. Each year millions of

people discover for the first time the

joys of birdwatching. It’s easy to

understand why. Birds are fun to

watch.

And you can watch them just about

everywhere. The most convenient

place to start is right in your own

backyard. All it takes to get

their attention is food or water,

a place to build a nest and

appropriate

vegetation.

photo:

Hollingsworth/USFWS

Backyard Bird Feeding

When you want to attract a particular

bird species and keep it coming back

to your backyard, what you do will

be determined by where you live,

and the time of year. For example,

on any winter day, you are likely to

see a cardinal at a sunflower feeder

in Virginia, a goldfinch at a thistle

feeder in Illinois and hummingbirds

at a nectar feeder in southern

California.

A bird field guide has pictures of

different birds and will help you find

the names for the birds you’re likely

to see and the time of year you’re

most likely to see them. So, first

determine what birds are likely to

occur in your area.

4

Getting Started

Feeder Selection

When the ground is covered with

snow and ice, it’s hard to resist

just tossing seed out the door.

But it’s healthier for the birds to

get their handouts at a feeding

station, rather than off the ground.

Regardless of the season, food that

sits on the ground for even a short

time is exposed to contamination

by dampness, mold, bacteria,

animal droppings, lawn fertilizers

and pesticides.

You can start simply with a piece of

scrap wood elevated a few inches

above the ground. Add a few holes for

drainage and you’ve built a platform

feeder. It won’t be long before the

birds find it.

There are several factors to consider

after you’ve decided to feed birds in

your backyard.

5

6

Where do you want to watch your

birds? From a kitchen window. . . a

sliding glass door opening onto a

deck. . . a second-story window?

Pick a location that is easy to get to.

When the weather is bad and birds

are most vulnerable, you may be

reluctant to fill a feeder that is not in

a convenient spot near a door or an

accessible window. Also, pick a site

where discarded seed shells and bird

droppings won’t be a cleanup problem.

Put your feeder where the squirrels

can’t reach. Squirrels become a

problem when they take over a bird

feeder, scaring the birds away and

tossing seed all over. Squirrels have

been known to chew right through

plastic and wooden feeders.

If you’ve seen squirrels in your

neighborhood, it is safe to assume

they will visit your feeder. Think long

and hard before you hang anything

from a tree limb. Squirrels are

incredibly agile, and any feeder

hanging from a tree is likely to

become a squirrel feeder.

In the long run, a squirrel-proof

feeder or any feeder on a pole with a

baffle is the least aggravating solution.

The most effective squirrel-proof

feeder is the pole-mounted metal

“house” type.

Placement

Photo: Kevin

Tennyson,

USDOI

If you must hang a feeder, select a

tube protected with metal mesh.

Most plastic “squirrel-proof ” feeders,

despite manufacturers’ claims, may

eventually succumb to the squirrels.

Any wood or plastic feeder can be

effective when mounted on a pole

with a plastic or metal baffle, if the

pole is at least 10 feet or more from

a tree limb or trunk (squirrels can

jump great distances).

Bird feeders are made from a variety

of materials. You can buy disposable

plastic bag feeders; feeders made

of cloth, nylon, vinyl and metal

netting; clear, lexan, colored and

PVC plastic tubes; ceramic and terra

cotta; redwood, western cedar,

birch, pine and plywood; sheet metal

and aluminized steel; glass tubes

and bottles.

How long a feeder lasts depends on

how well you maintain it, the effects

of weather, and whether squirrels

can get to it. Water can get into any

feeder regardless of how carefully

you protect it. Cloth, vinyl, nylon

and metal netting feeders are

inexpensive, but they do not protect

your seed from spoiling in damp

or wet weather. Improve them by

adding a plastic dome.

Most wood, plastic, ceramic and

solid metal feeders keep seed dry,

but water can get into the feeding

portals. Look for feeders with

drainage holes in the bottoms of both

the feeder hopper and the seed tray.

Even bowl-type feeders and trays

with drainage holes will clog with

seed and bird droppings that can

mix with rainwater and be unhealthy

for any animal. Look for shallow

plate-like seed trays to catch dropped

seeds while allowing spent seed

shells to blow away.

7

Durability

8

When you feed birds, expect bird

droppings and a leftover food mess.

While you do not have to wash the

feeder daily, you should clean it at

least every few weeks. Diseases like

salmonella can grow in moldy, wet

seed and bird droppings in your

feeder tray and on the ground below.

Move your feeder a few feet each

season to give the ground underneath

time to assimilate the seed debris and

bird droppings.

The maintenance required to keep

your feeder clean varies according to

the type of feeder. A thistle feeder for

goldfinches should be cleaned about

once a month depending on how

often it rains. Feeding hummingbirds

requires cleaning at the very least

weekly, but preferably two or three

times a week. Sunflower and suet

feeders need to be cleaned only once

a month.

Plastic, ceramic and glass feeders are

easy to clean. Wash them in a bucket

of hot, soapy water fortified with a

capful or two of chlorine bleach.

Use the same regimen with wood

feeders, but substitute another

disinfectant for the bleach so your

wood won’t fade.

The ideal feeder capacity varies with

your situation, and the types of birds

you want to attract. If you feed

hummingbirds, big feeders are not

always better. One hummingbird

will drink about twice its body

weight (less than an ounce) a day.

Early in the season, hummers are

territorial and won’t share a feeder. A

sixteen-ounce feeder can be wasteful,

or even lethal, because artificial

nectar (sugar water) can ferment in

the hot summer sun. A two-ounce

feeder is more than enough for one

hummer. Increase the size of your

feeder depending on your location

and how many hummers you see in

your yard.

Food Capacity

If you opt for a large-volume seed

feeder, protect it from the weather

and keep it clean. If after months of

use, the birds suddenly abandon your

feeder full of seed, it’s time for a

cleaning.

How Many Birds

If too many birds at your feeder

become a problem, you can control

their numbers by putting out smaller

amounts of seed, or by using

specialty seeds or restrictive feeders

that will attract only certain species.

If you fill your feeder only when it’s

empty, the birds will look for food

elsewhere.

You can encourage small birds and

discourage large birds with feeders

that restrict access. Wood feeders

with vertical bars and feeders

covered with wire mesh frustrate

larger birds.

The most non-selective feeders are

the tray, platform or house feeders

because they allow easy access by

all birds.

Tube feeders without trays also

restrict access to only small birds.

Remove the perches, and you’ve

further restricted the feeder to only

those birds that can easily cling—

finches, chickadees, titmice and

woodpeckers.

9

10

If starlings are a problem at your

suet feeder, discourage them by using

a suet feeder with access only from

the bottom. Starlings are reluctant

to perch upside down. Chickadees

and woodpeckers don’t find that a

problem.

You can virtually eliminate visits by

birds you would rather not see by

offering seeds they won’t eat. If you

use more than one type of seed, put

them in separate feeders. This will

reduce wasted seeds, as birds will

toss unwanted seeds out of a feeder

to get to their favorites.

Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix

and you’ll see the birds methodically

drop or kick out most of the seeds to

get to their favorite—sunflower.

11

Many birds prefer sunflower. Some

prefer millet. A few prefer peanuts.

Sparrows, blackbirds, doves and

juncos will eat the other grains used

in pre-made mixes: corn, milo, red

millet, oats, wheat and canary seed.

Birds will also kick out artificial

“berry” pellets, processed seed

flavored and colored to look like

real fruit.

Black oil sunflower is the hands-down

favorite of all the birds that visit

tube and house feeders. Birds who

visit platform feeders (doves and

sparrows) favor white proso millet.

Ducks, geese and quail will eat corn.

Many cereal grains (corn, milo,

oats, canary, wheat, rape, flax and

buckwheat) in mixed bird seeds are

NOT favorites of birds that visit

tube feeders.

The most effective way to attract the

largest variety of birds to your yard

is to put out separate feeders for

each food:

a starling-resistant suet feeder

a house feeder for sunflower

a bluebird feeder

a wire mesh cage feeder for peanut

a nectar feeder

a tube feeder for thistle

a stationary or tray fruit feeder

a house or platform feeder for millet

12

Suet Feeder

Thistle Feeder

13

Feeding Tray

Nut Feeder

14

Birds Attracted by Various Feeders

and Foods

Tube Feeder with

Black Oil

Sunflower

. . . Adding a

Tray to the Tube

Feeder Will Also

Attract

Tray or Platform

Feeder—with

Millet

Tray or Platform

Feeder—with

Corn

Platform Feeder

or Tube Feeder

and Tray—with

Peanuts

Niger Thistle

Feeder with Tray

Nectar Feeder

goldfinches

chickadees

woodpeckers

nuthatches

cardinals

jays

crossbills

purple finches

house finches

doves

house sparrows

blackbirds

juncos

cowbirds

towhees

starlings

house sparrows

grackles

jays

juncos

bobwhite quail

cardinals

grackles

titmice

starlings

jays

goldfinches

house finches

purple finches

redpolls

pine siskins

doves

hummingbirds

orioles

cardinals

tanagers

titmice

redpolls

pine siskins

woodpeckers

finches

thrushes

white-throated

sparrows

white-crowned

sparrows

white-throated

sparrows

tree sparrows

white-crowned

sparrows

chipping sparrows

doves

ring-necked

pheasants

white-throated

sparrows

chickadees

song sparrows

dark-eyed juncos

white-throated

sparrows

orioles

tanagers

mockingbirds

bluebirds

thrashers

cardinals

woodpeckers

woodpeckers

wrens

chickadees

nuthatches

kinglets

woodpeckers

goldfinches

juncos

cardinals

thrushes

woodpeckers

chickadees

titmice

Uninvited Guests at the Birdfeeder

Once you get your bird feeding

station up and running, you may run

into problems with two kinds of

uninvited guests—those interested in

the seeds (squirrels and chipmunks,

rats and mice, and starlings and

house sparrows), and those

interested in eating a bird for dinner

(cats and hawks).

15

Fruit

Hanging Suet

Feeder

Peanut Butter

Suet

Hanging Peanut

Feeder

jays

starlings

thrushes

cedar waxwings

yellow-breasted

chats

thrashers

creepers

cardinals

starlings

jays

kinglets

bluebirds

wrens

starlings

16

When a squirrel is at the feeder,

you’re not likely to see birds.

Squirrels will scare off the birds

while they eat the seed and

sometimes they will eat the feeder

too. The simplest solution is a

squirrel-proof feeder or pole.

Starlings and house sparrows are not

native to North America and are

aggressive towards other species.

Choose your feeder and seed to

exclude these species if possible.

Chipmunks, rats and mice can also

become a problem where there is

seed spillage under the feeder.

Don’t use mixed bird seed, and if

you don’t have a squirrel problem,

add a feeder tray.

Feral cats and your neighbor’s tabby

are a serious threat to many birds.

Keep feeders away from brushpiles

and shrubbery, as this offers cats the

necessary cover to surprise birds.

If there are no cats in your

neighborhood and you find a pile of

feathers near your feeder, look for a

full-bellied hawk perching on a tree

nearby. Don’t put out poisons or try

to trap hawks though, as this is

against state and federal law.

Questions about Feeding Wild Birds

Usually, whenever the weather is

severe, birds will appreciate a

reliable supplemental food source.

In northern areas, start before the

onset of cold weather so birds have

time to find the feeder.

Although you can feed birds year-round,

especially with fruit and

nectar, you can stop feeding seeds

once a reliable supply of insects is

available in the spring.

There is no evidence that feeding

hummers after Labor Day will delay

migration. Still, feeders in areas with

sub-freezing winter weather should

be removed shortly after that holiday.

Tempting hummers to remain beyond

normal departure dates is ill-advised.

It may take more time for birds to

find window feeders than hanging or

pole-mounted feeders. You may want

to wrap aluminum foil around the top

of the feeder hanger. Sometimes all it

takes is the reflection of light on the

foil to catch their attention.

When birds desert your feeder, it

may be simply that a lot of natural

food is available nearby. Or

something may be wrong, such as

spoiled seeds or a contaminated

feeder. Throw the seeds away and

wash the feeder. Look at where your

feeder is placed. Be sure it’s not

vulnerable to predators. At the same

time, make sure it is not in an open

area, away from the cover in which

birds usually travel.

Birds don’t have sweat glands in their

feet, so they won’t freeze onto metal

feeders. There’s no need to cover

any metal feeders parts with plastic

or wood to protect birds’ feet,

tongues or eyes.

17

When is the best

time to start?

When’s the best

time to stop?

Is it best to

stop feeding

hummingbirds

after Labor Day?

How long does it

take for birds to

find a feeder?

My feeder is full

of seeds. I haven’t

seen a bird in

months. Am I

doing something

wrong?

Will birds’ feet

stick to metal

feeders and

perches in the

wet winter

weather?

18

Birds have no teeth to grind their

food. The dirt, sand, pebbles and

grit they eat sit in their crop and

help grind up their food. Adding

grit to your feeder is helpful,

particularly in the winter and spring.

Crushed eggshells do the same thing,

and in the spring have an added

benefit: they provide birds with

extra calcium for producing eggs of

their own.

There is no evidence that birds can

choke on peanut butter. However,

birds have no salivary glands. You

can make it easier on them by mixing

peanut butter with lard, cornmeal or

grit. Your birds will appreciate

drinking water too, from a bird bath

or trough.

In the winter, raw beef fat from the

local butcher is all you need for your

suet feeder. When temperatures rise,

raw fat can melt and get rancid. It’s

safer to use commercially rendered

suet cakes in the spring and summer

months. Rendering (boiling) the fat

kills bacteria.

You can make your own hummingbird

nectar by adding 1/4 cup of sugar to a

cup of boiling water. Remember,

sugar water will ferment when left in

the hot sun, turning nectar deadly.

Do not put out a nectar feeder if you

are not willing to clean it at least

weekly, preferably twice a week.

Hummers eat insects for their

protein. There is no evidence that

these tiny birds need vitamin and

mineral supplements. There is also

no evidence that adding red food

coloring to nectar will harm the

birds, but it probably is not necessary

to attract them. Just put your

feeder near red flowers or buy a red

hummingbird feeder.

Do wild birds

need grit?

Can birds choke

on peanut

butter?

Won’t suet go bad

in the summer?

What is

hummingbird

nectar? Do

hummers need

nectar fortified

with vitamins

and minerals?

Bees will inevitably visit your

hummingbird feeder, especially in

hot weather. Little plastic bee guards

may help keep them from getting

nectar but it won’t stop them from

trying. Don’t take the chance of

contaminating your nectar by

putting vegetable oil around the

feeding portals. One solution is to

add a few small feeders away from

where people are likely to be

bothered by bees.

Birds will come right to your window.

Sometimes it takes a while for them

to overcome their initial reluctance,

so be patient. Don’t worry that a

feeder on the window will cause

birds to fly into the window. Birds fly

into the window because they see

the reflection of the woods. Window

feeders and decals help break up

the reflection.

No. The red or pink coating is

capstan, a fungicide used on seeds

meant for planting. If you buy a bag

of cracked corn or other seed treated

with capstan, return it to the store.

It can kill horses, other mammals

and wild birds.

Moths lay their eggs in sunflower

seeds. The eggs lay dormant as long

as the seeds are stored in a cool dry

place. In the summer, seeds get hot

and the eggs hatch. The best way

to avoid this problem is to buy seeds

in smaller quantities, or store your

seeds in a cool, dry place. It also

helps to know where your retailer

stores the seed. An air-conditioned

storage unit is the better choice.

Insects also lay their eggs in burlap

bags. Don’t buy seeds in burlap bags.

Don’t buy seed in paper and plastic

bags with patched holes. That may be

a sign of insect or rodent infestation.

19

How can I avoid

bees at my

hummingbird

feeder?

How close to my

window can I put

a feeder?

Is cracked corn

coated with a red

dye safe to use?

I bought a bag of

sunflower seeds

early in the

spring. Over the

summer I first

noticed worms,

then moths. What

can I do to keep

the bugs out?

20

Homes for Birds

Many of the birds that visit feeders

and baths may stay and nest in

nearby trees. Most of them, including

cardinals, doves and orioles, don’t

nest in boxes. You can still help

them by considering their food and

shelter requirements in your

landscape plans.

More than two dozen North

American birds nest in bird houses.

The following descriptions will help

you determine which birds might

visit your neighborhood.

If you put up a bluebird house near

an old field, orchard, park, cemetery

or golf course, you might have a

chance of attracting a pair of

bluebirds. They prefer nest boxes on

a tree stump or wooden fence post

between three and five feet high.

Bluebirds also nest in abandoned

woodpecker nest holes.

The most important measurement is

the hole diameter. An inch and a half

is small enough to deter starlings,

which, along with house sparrows,

have been known to kill bluebirds, as

well as adults sitting on the nest.

Bluebirds have problems with other

animals too. Discourage cats, snakes,

raccoons and chipmunks by mounting

the house on a metal pole, or use a

metal predator guard on a wood post.

The robin is our largest thrush.

They prefer to build their nest in the

crotch of a tree. If you don’t have an

appropriate tree, you can offer a

nesting platform. Pick a spot six

feet or higher up on a shaded tree

trunk or under the overhang of a

shed or porch. Creating a “mud

puddle” nearby offers further

enticement, as robins use mud to hold

their nests together.

Birds You Can

Attract to Nest

Boxes

Bluebirds

American Robins

Chickadees, titmice and nuthatches

share the same food, feeders, and

habitat. If you put a properly

designed nest box in a wooded yard,

at least one of these species might

check it out.

Put chickadee houses at eye level.

Hang them from limbs or secure

them to tree trunks. The entrance

hole should be 11/8 inches to attract

chickadees, yet exclude house

sparrows. Anchor houses for

nuthatches on tree trunks five to six

feet off the ground.

21

Chickadees,

Nuthatches

and Titmice

Look for brown creepers to nest

behind the curved bark of tree

trunks. In heavily wooded yards, slab

bark houses appeal to creepers.

Prothonotary warblers also prefer

slab bark houses, or bluebird boxes

attached to a tree trunk, but theirs

must be placed over water (lakes,

rivers or swamps) with a good canopy

of trees overhead.

Brown Creepers

and

Prothonotary

Warblers

22

Wrens don’t seem to be very picky

about where they nest. Try nest

boxes with a 1 inch x 2 inch horizontal

slot (11/2 inch x 21/2 inch for the larger

Carolina wrens) instead of a circle.

These are easier for the wrens to use.

However, the larger the opening, the

more likely it is house sparrows will

occupy the box.

Wrens are known for filling a nest

cavity with twigs, regardless of

whether they use the nest to raise

their young. Since male house wrens

build several nests for the female to

choose from, hang several nest

boxes at eye level on partly sunlit

tree limbs. Wrens are sociable and

will accept nest boxes quite close to

your house.

Wrens

Tree swallows prefer nest boxes

attached to dead trees. Space the

boxes about seven feet apart for

these white-bellied birds with

iridescent blue-green backs and

wings. The ideal setting for these

insect-eaters is on the edge of a large

field near a lake, pond or river.

Violet-green swallows nest in forested

mountains of the West; boxes

placed on large trees in a semi-open

woodland will attract them.

If you have the right habitat, like an

open barn or old shed, barn swallows

and phoebes are easy to attract.

It’s their nesting behavior, not their

plumage or song, that catches your

attention. However, these birds tend

to nest where you would rather not

have them: on a ledge right over

your front door. To avoid a mess by

your door, offer the birds a nesting

shelf nearby where you’d rather

have them.

23

Tree and Violet-green

Swallows

Barn Swallows

and Phoebes

24

Many people want martins in their

yards because, it’s been said, these

birds eat 2,000 mosquitoes a day.

While it’s true that they eat flying

insects, don’t expect purple martins

to eliminate mosquitoes in your yard

completely. Martins prefer

dragonflies, which prey on mosquito

larvae. If you want to help rid your

yard of mosquitoes, put up a bat

roosting box. One bat can eat

thousands of mosquitoes a night.

Martins are entertaining creatures,

however, and you’ll enjoy watching

their antics in your backyard. You

have the best chance of attracting

martins if you put a house on the

edge of a pond or river, surrounded

by a field or lawn. Martins need

a radius of about 40 feet of

unobstructed flying space around

their houses. A telephone wire

nearby gives them a place to perch

in sociable groups.

Martins nest in groups, so you’ll need

a house with a minimum of four large

rooms—6 or more inches on all

sides, with a 2 1/2 inch entrance hole

about 11/2 inches above the floor.

Ventilation and drainage are critical

factors in martin house design.

Porches, railings, porch dividers

and supplemental roof perches, like

a TV antenna, make any house

more appealing.

You can also make houses from

gourds by fashioning an entrance

hole and small holes in the bottom

for drainage. If you use gourds, it’s

not necessary to add railings and

perches. Adult martins will perch on

the wire used to hang the houses.

Before you select a house, think

about what kind of pole you’re going

to put it on. Martins occupy a house

ten to twenty feet off the ground.

Some poles are less cumbersome

than others.

Purple Martins

Gourd houses are the easiest to set

up. String them from a wire between

two poles, from a sectional aluminum

pole, or on pulleys mounted to a

crossbar high up on a pole.

You can mount lightweight aluminum

houses for martins on telescoping

poles, providing easy access for

maintenance and inspection. Because

of their weight (more than 30

pounds), wood houses should not be

mounted on telescoping poles. You’ll

have to use a sturdy metal or a wood

pole attached to a pivot post. The

problem with this lowering technique

is that you can’t tilt the house without

damaging the nests inside. If you put

your house on a shorter, fixed pole,

ten to twelve feet high, you can use a

ladder to inspect and maintain it.

The great crested flycatcher and its

western cousin, the ash-throated

flycatcher, are common in wooded

suburbs and rural areas with

woodlots. Their natural nesting sites

are abandoned woodpecker holes.

Flycatchers may nest in a bird

house if it is placed about ten feet

up in a tree in an orchard or at the

edge of a field or stream. This is a

longshot, but well worth the effort if

you are successful.

You can attract all types of

woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but

only the flicker is likely to use a

bird house. They prefer a box with

roughened interior and a floor

covered with a two-inch layer of

wood chips or coarse sawdust.

Flickers are especially attracted to

nest boxes filled with sawdust, which

they “excavate” to suit themselves.

For best results, place the box

high up on a tree trunk, exposed to

direct sunlight.

25

Flycatchers

Woodpeckers

26

Try building a birdhouse for the

other species of woodpeckers

following the guidelines in this

booklet. You might be surprised!

Most owls seldom build their own

nests. Great horned and long-eared

owls prefer abandoned crow and

hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn,

saw-whet, boreal and screech) nest in

tree cavities and bird houses.

Barn owls are best known for

selecting nesting sites near farms.

Where trees are sparse, these birds

will nest in church steeples, silos

and barns. If you live near a farm or

a golf course, try fastening a nest

box for owls about 15 feet up on a

tree trunk.

Screech owls prefer abandoned

woodpecker holes at the edge of a

field or neglected orchard. They will

readily take to boxes lined with an

inch or two of wood shavings. If you

clean the box out in late spring after

the young owls have fledged, you may

attract a second tenant—a kestrel.

Trees isolated from larger tracts of

woods have less chance of squirrels

taking over the box.

Owls

Selecting a House

In the bird house business, there’s

no such thing as “one size fits all.”

Decide which bird you want to

attract, then get a house for that

particular bird. Look through any

book or catalog and you’ll see bird

houses of all sizes and shapes,

with perches and without, made of

materials you might not have

thought of: recycled paper, gourds,

plastic, rubber, pottery, metal and

concrete. The proper combination

of quality materials and design

makes a good birdhouse.

27

Materials

Wood is just about the best building

material for any birdhouse. It’s

durable, has good insulating qualities

and breathes. Three-quarter-inch

thick bald cypress and red cedar are

recommended. Pine and exterior

grade plywood will do, but they are

not as durable.

It makes no difference whether the

wood is slab, rough-cut or finished,

as long as the inside has not been

treated with stains or preservatives.

Fumes from the chemicals could

harm the birds.

photo: Bill French/

USFWS

28

There’s no need to paint cypress and

cedar, but pine and plywood houses

will last longer with a coat of water-based

exterior latex paint. White is

the color for purple martin houses.

Tan, gray or dull green works best

for the other cavity nesting species.

The dull, light colors reflect heat and

are less conspicuous to predators.

Don’t paint the inside of the box or

the entrance hole.

Regardless of which wood you select,

gluing all the joints before you nail

them will extend the life of your bird

house. Galvanized or brass shank

nails, hinges and screws resist

rusting and hold boxes together more

tightly as they age.

Resist the temptation to put a metal

roof on your bird house. Reflective

metal makes sense for martin houses

up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when

it’s tacked onto the roof of a wood

chickadee house, the shiny metal is

more likely to attract predators.

Natural gourds make very attractive

bird houses. They breathe, and

because they sway in the wind they

are less likely to be taken over by

house sparrows and starlings.

Grow your own gourds and you’ll

have dozens to choose from in the

years ahead. If you don’t have the

space to grow them, a coat of

polyurethane or exterior latex (on the

outside only) will add years to the one

you have.

Properly designed pottery, aluminum

(for purple martins only), concrete

and plastic houses are durable, but

don’t drop them.

Be sure to provide ventilation,

drainage, and easy access for

maintenance and monitoring.

Concrete (or a mix of concrete and

sawdust) offers protection other

houses cannot: squirrels can’t chew

their way in.

Design

How elaborate you make your bird

house depends on your own tastes. In

addition to where you place the box,

the most important considerations

are: box height, depth, floor

dimensions, diameter of entrance

hole and height of the hole above the

box floor.

Refer to the following chart before

building your nest box, keeping in

mind that birds make their own

choices, without regard for charts.

So don’t be surprised if you find

tenants you never expected in a

house you intended for someone else.

Now that you have the correct

dimensions for your bird house,

take a look at how to make it safe:

ventilation, drainage, susceptibly to

predators, and ease of maintenance.

29

30

Nest Box Dimensions

Floor Depth

size (top to bottom)

Species (inches) (inches)

American Robin* 7x8 8

Eastern &

Western

Bluebirds 5x5 8–12

Mountain

Bluebird 5x5 8–12

Chickadee 4x4 8–10

Titmouse 4x4 10–12

Ash-throated

Flycatcher 6x6 8–12

Great Crested

Flycatcher 6x6 8–12

Phoebe* 6x6 6

Brown-headed/

Pygmy/

Red-breasted

Nuthatch 4x4 8–10

White-breasted

Nuthatch 4x4 8–10

Prothonotary

Warbler 5x5 6

Barn Swallow* 6x6 6

Purple Martin 6x6 6

Tree and Violet-

Green Swallows 5x5 6–8

*Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and

an open front

31

Entrance Height Entrance Height

above floor Diameter above ground

(inches) (inches) (feet)

—– —–

6–10 11/2 4–6

6–10 11/2 4–6

6–8 11/8 4–15

6–10 11/4 5–15

6–10 11/2 5–15

6–10 13/4 5–15

—– —– 8–12

6–8 11/4 5–15

6–8 13/8 5–15

4–5 11/8 4–8

—– —– 8–12

1–2 21/4 6–20

4–6 11/2 5–15

32

Floor Depth

size (top to bottom)

Species (inches) (inches)

Downy

Woodpecker 4x4 8–10

Hairy

Woodpecker 6x6 12–15

Lewis’s

Woodpecker 7x7 16–18

Northern

Flicker 7x7 16–18

Pileated

Woodpecker 8x8 16–24

Red–Headed

Woodpecker 6x6 12–15

Yellow–bellied

Sapsucker 5x5 12–15

Bewick’s/

House Wrens 4x4 6–8

Carolina Wren 4x4 6–8

Barn Owl 10x18 15–18

Screech–Owl

and Kestrel 8x8 12–15

Osprey 48x48 (platform)

Red–tailed

Hawk/Great

Horned Owl 24x24 platform

Wood Duck 10x18 10–24

*Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and

an open front

33

Entrance Height Entrance Height

above floor Diameter above ground

(inches) (inches) (feet)

6–8 11/4 5–15

9–12 1 1/2 8–20

14–16 21/2 12–20

14–16 21/2 6–20

12–20 3x4 15–25

9–12 2 10–20

9–12 11/2 10–20

4–6 11/4 5–10

4–6 11/2 5–10

4 6 12–18

9–12 3 10–30

12–16 4 10–20

34

You should provide air vents in bird

boxes. There are two ways to provide

ventilation: leave gaps between the

roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4

inch holes just below the roof.

Water becomes a problem when it sits

in the bottom of a bird house. A roof

with sufficient slope and overhang

offers some protection. Drilling the

entrance hole on an upward slant

may also help keep the water out.

Regardless of design, driving rain

will get in through the entrance hole.

You can assure proper drainage by

cutting away the corners of the box

floor and drilling 1/4-inch holes. Nest

boxes will last longer if the floors are

recessed about 1/4 inch.

Look for the entrance hole on the

front panel near the top. A rough

surface both inside and out makes it

easier for the adults to get into the

box and, when it’s time, for the

nestlings to climb out.

If your box is made of finished wood,

add a couple of grooves outside below

the hole. Open the front panel and

add grooves, cleats or wire mesh to

the inside. Never put up a bird house

with a perch below the entrance

hole. Perches offer starlings, house

sparrows and other predators a

convenient place to wait for lunch.

Don’t be tempted by duplexes or

houses that have more than one

entrance hole. Except for purple

martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer

not to share a house. While these

condos look great in your yard,

starlings and house sparrows are

inclined to use them.

Ventilation

Drainage

Entrance Hole

Bird houses should be easily

accessible so you can see how your

birds are doing and clean out the

house. Monitor your bird houses

every week and evict unwanted

creatures such as house sparrows

or starlings.

Be careful when you inspect your

bird boxes—you may find something

other than a bird inside. Don’t be

surprised to see squirrels, mice,

snakes or insects. Look for fleas,

flies, mites, larvae and lice in the

bottom of the box. If you find insects

and parasites, your first reaction may

be to grab the nearest can of insect

spray. If you do, use only insecticides

known to be safe around birds:

1 percent rotenone powder or

pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a

problem, coat the inside top of the

box with bar soap.

35

Accessibility

Here’s how to check your nest boxes

for unwanted visitors:

Watch the nest for 20–30 minutes. If

you don’t see or hear any birds near

the box, go over and tap on the box.

If you hear bird sounds, open the

top and take a quick peek inside. If

everything is all right, close the box.

If you see problems (parasites or

predators), remove them and close

the box.

36

A bird house with easy access makes

the job simple. Most bird houses can

be opened from the top, the side, the

front or the bottom. Boxes that open

from the top and the front provide

the easiest access. Opening the box

from the top is less likely to disturb

nesting birds. It’s impossible to open

a box from the bottom without the

nest falling out. While side- and

front-opening boxes are convenient

for cleaning and monitoring, they

have one drawback: the nestlings

may jump out. If this happens, don’t

panic. Pick them up and put them

back in the nest. Don’t worry that the

adults will reject the nestlings if you

handle them. That’s a myth; most

birds have a terrible sense of smell.

If you clean out your nest boxes after

each brood has fledged, several pairs

may use the nest throughout the

summer. Some cavity-nesting birds

will not nest again in a box full of old

nesting material.

In the fall, after you’ve cleaned out

your nest box for the last time, you

can put it in storage or leave it out.

Gourds and pottery last longer if you

take them in for the winter. You can

leave your purple martin houses up,

but plug the entrance holes to

discourage starlings and house

sparrows.

Leaving your wood and concrete

houses out provides shelter for birds,

flying squirrels and other animals

during winter. Each spring,

thoroughly clean all houses left out

for the winter.

Proper box depth, and roof and

entrance hole design will help

reduce access by predators, such as

raccoons, cats, opossums, and

squirrels. Sometimes all it takes is an

angled roof with a three-inch

overhang to discourage small

mammals.

The entrance hole is the only thing

between a predator and a bird house

full of nestlings. By itself, the 3/4-inch

wall is not wide enough to keep out

the arm of a raccoon or house cat.

Add a predator guard (a 3/4-inch thick

rectangular wood block with an

entrance hole cut in it) to thicken the

wall and you’ll discourage sparrows,

starlings, and cats.

Bird House Placement

Where you put your bird house is as

important as its design and

construction. Cavity-nesting birds are

very particular about where they live.

If you don’t have the right habitat,

the birds are not likely to find the

house. You can modify your land to

attract the birds you want to see by

putting out a bird bath, planting

fruit-bearing shrubs, including more

trees or installing a pond with a

waterfall.

37

Limiting

Predator Access

38

Once you’ve matched up the right

bird house with the appropriate

habitat, you have to know where to

put the nest box. Should you hang it

from a tree limb, nail it to a fence or

mount it on a pole or a tree trunk?

Most species require a fairly narrow

range of heights for nest boxes. After

checking the table in this brochure,

pick a height that’s convenient for

you. After all, you will want to watch

what goes on and keep the box clean.

If you want to watch chickadees from

your second floor window or deck,

fifteen feet is reasonable but it’s a lot

easier to clean out a box at eye level.

Here are some tips on where to put

bird houses:

don’t put bird houses near bird

feeders.

houses mounted on metal poles are

less vulnerable to predators than

houses nailed to tree trunks or hung

from tree limbs.

use no more than four small nest

boxes or one large box per acre for

any one species.

put about 100 yards between bluebird

boxes and 75 yards between swallow

boxes. (If you have both species, pair

the houses with one bluebird box 25

feet from a swallow box.)

don’t put more than one box in a tree

unless the tree is extremely large or

the boxes are for different species.

if you have very hot summers, face

the entrance holes of your boxes

north or east to avoid overheating

the box.

Protection from Predators

Nesting birds are extremely

vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings

and birds roosting for the night.

Bell collars on cats offer birds little

protection. Nailing a sheet metal

guard or cone to a tree trunk is

unsightly, but may deter less agile

felines. Houses mounted on metal

poles are the most difficult for

predators to reach, especially if you

smear the poles with a petroleum

jelly and hot pepper mixture. The

best deterrent is for owners to keep

their cats inside whenever possible.

Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings

in the spring and summer. Don’t

let your dog run loose during

nesting time.

Red squirrels, and sometimes gray

squirrels, can become a serious

menace to bird houses and the birds

themselves. If you find your nest hole

enlarged, chances are a red squirrel

is the culprit. Once inside the box,

squirrels make a meal of the eggs

and young. Adding a predator guard

made of sheet metal to the entrance

hole is usually enough to keep

squirrels out.

Raccoons and opossums will stick

their arms inside nest boxes and try

to pull out the adult, young, and

eggs. Adding a 3/4-inch thick predator

guard to the bird house or an

inverted cone to its pole support is a

simple solution.

Snakes play an important part in the

balance of nature. If you find one in

your bird house, don’t kill it. Snake-proof

your house by putting it on a

metal pole lathered with petroleum

jelly or red cayenne pepper.

39

Cats

Dogs

Squirrels

Raccoons and

Opossums

Snakes

40

If you don’t discourage them, these

two nuisance species introduced

from Europe will harass or kill

cavity-nesting birds. Since house

sparrows and starlings are not

protected by law, you may destroy

their nests. But remember, other

birds are protected by law.

House wrens sometimes interfere

with the nesting success of other

birds by puncturing their eggs.

But, unlike the house sparrow and

starling, these birds are native to

North America and are protected by

law. Don’t be tempted to intervene

when wrens appear at your

backyard birdhouse.

Many insects lay their eggs and

pupate in bird houses. Inspect your

bird houses for signs of gypsy moths,

blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats and

bees. Keep bees and wasps from

attaching their nests by coating the

inside of the roof with bar soap. In

areas where gypsy moths abound,

avoid placing boxes in oak trees,

which the gypsy moths favor.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides

are recommended for killing fly

larvae, bird lice and mites after birds

have finished nesting for the season.

Attracting Birds

As people learn to enjoy the beauty

of birds around their home, they may

wish to improve the “habitat” in their

yard so that more birds will visit

their property. You can attract birds

by placing bird feeders, nest boxes

and bird baths in your yard, and by

planting a variety of trees, shrubs,

and flowers. These can provide good

nesting sites, winter shelter, places

to hide from predators and natural

food supplies that are available

year-round.

House Sparrows

and Starlings

House Wrens

Insects

Landscaping for Birds

The most surefire way to attract

birds to your backyard is to make

certain the appropriate habitat is

available to them. You may be lucky

and already have a good supply of

food, shelter, and water available for

our feathered friends. In that case,

you have to do little more than stand

back and watch.

However, for most backyards, bird

habitat must be created. It’s called

“landscaping for birds” and it can

be as simple or extravagant as

you wish. Whatever the approach,

anyone who has ever tried this type

of landscaping comes away with a

real love for it after their first

sparkling hummingbirds hover at

the coral bells, or the perky catbird

comes down for a drink of water from

the birdbath, or the sleek waxwings

gather en masse to sample

bittersweet berries.

41

Wildlife photography is a wonderful

hobby for people of all ages.

Try keeping a list of all the birds you

see in your yard or from your yard.

Some people have counted nearly 200

species of birds in their yard!

Birds such as tree swallows, house

wrens, brown thrashers and orioles

eat a variety of insects.

42

Benefits of Landscaping for Birds

You can derive many benefits from

landscaping to attract birds to your

yard:

You can probably double the number

of bird species using your property

with a good landscaping plan.

By carefully arranging your conifer

and hardwood trees, you can lower

winter heating and summer cooling

bills for your house.

Certain landscape plants can prevent

soil erosion.

A good landscaping plan contributes

to a beautiful, natural setting around

your home that is pleasing to people

as well as birds.

Increased

Wildlife

Populations

Energy

Conservation

Soil

Conservation

Natural Beauty

Wildlife

Photography

Birdwatching

Natural Insect

Control

Some plants that attract wildlife

are also appealing to humans.

People and wildlife can share

cherries, chokecherries, strawberries,

and crabapples.

A good landscaping plan can greatly

increase the value of your property

by adding natural beauty and an

abundance of wildlife.

Some of the best wildlife habitats are

the best habitats for young people to

discover the wonders of nature. A

backyard bird habitat can stimulate

young people to develop a lifelong

interest in wildlife and conservation.

Basics of Landscaping for Birds

Landscaping for birds involves nine

basic principles:

Every bird species has its own unique

food requirements that may change

as the seasons change. Learn the

food habits of the birds you wish to

attract. Then plant the appropriate

trees, shrubs, and flowers to provide

the fruits, berries, seeds, acorns, nuts

and nectar.

You may be able to double the

number of bird species in your

yard by providing a source of water.

A frog pond, water garden, or

bird bath will get lots of bird use,

especially if the water is dripping,

splashing or moving.

Birds need places where they can

hide from predators and escape from

severe weather. Trees (including dead

ones), shrubs, tall grass and bird

houses provide excellent shelter.

The best landscaping plan is one

that includes a variety of native

plants. This helps attract the most

bird species.

43

Food Production

Property Value

Habitat for Kids

Food

Water

Shelter

Diversity

44

Give birds food and shelter

throughout the year by planting a

variety of trees, shrubs and flowers

that provide year-round benefits.

Properly arrange the different

habitat components in your yard.

Consider the effects of prevailing

winds (and snow drifting) so your

yard will be protected from harsh

winter weather.

Birds should be protected from

unnecessary mortality. When

choosing the placement of bird

feeders and nest boxes, consider their

accessibility to predators. Picture

windows can also be dangerous for

birds, who fly directly at windows

when they see the reflection of trees

and shrubs. A network of parallel,

vertical strings spaced 4 inches

apart can be placed on the outside of

windows to prevent this problem. Be

cautious about the kinds of herbicides

and pesticides used in your yard.

Apply them only when necessary

and strictly according to label

instructions. In fact, try gardening

and lawn care without using

pesticides. Details can be found in

gardening books at the library.

When considering plants not native to

your area, consult a plant hardiness

zone map, found in most garden

catalogues. Make sure the plants

you want are rated for the winter

hardiness zone classification of

your area.

Consult your local garden center,

university or county extension office

to have your soil tested. Plant species

are often adapted to certain types

of soils. If you know what type of

soil you have, you can identify the

types of plants that will grow best in

your yard.

Four Seasons

Arrangement

Protection

Hardiness Zones

Soils and

Topography

Plants for Wild Birds

Seven types of plants are important

as bird habitat:

Conifers are evergreen trees and

shrubs that include pines, spruces,

firs, arborvitae, junipers, cedars, and

yews. These plants are important as

escape cover, winter shelter and

summer nesting sites. Some also

provide sap, fruits and seeds.

Grasses and legumes can provide

cover for ground nesting birds—but

only if the area is not mowed during

the nesting season. Some grasses

and legumes provide seeds as well.

Native prairie grasses are becoming

increasingly popular for landscaping

purposes.

Nectar-producing plants are very

popular for attracting hummingbirds

and orioles. Flowers with tubular red

corollas are especially attractive to

hummingbirds. Other trees, shrubs,

vines and flowers also can provide

nectar for hummingbirds.

This category includes plants that

produce fruits or berries from May

through August. In the summer these

plants can attract brown thrashers,

catbirds, robins, thrushes, waxwings,

woodpeckers, orioles, cardinals,

towhees and grosbeaks. Examples of

summer-fruiting plants are various

species of cherry, chokecherry,

honeysuckle, raspberry, serviceberry,

blackberry, blueberry, grape,

mulberry, plum and elderberry.

45

Conifers

Grasses and

Legumes

Nectar-producing

Plants

Summer-fruiting

Plants

46

This landscape component includes

shrubs and vines whose fruits ripen

in the fall. These foods are important

both for migratory birds which build

up fat reserves before migration and

as a food source for nonmigratory

species that need to enter the winter

season in good physical condition.

Fall-fruiting plants include dogwoods,

mountain ash, winter-berries,

cottoneasters and buffalo-berries.

Winter-fruiting plants are those

whose fruits remain attached to the

plants long after they first become

ripe in the fall. Many are not

palatable until they have frozen and

thawed many times. Examples are

glossy black chokecherry, Siberian

and “red splendor” crabapple,

snowberry, bittersweet, sumacs,

American highbush cranberry,

eastern and European wahoo,

Virginia creeper, and Chinaberry.

These include oaks, hickories,

buckeyes, chestnuts, butternuts,

walnuts and hazels. A variety of

birds, such as jays, woodpeckers and

titmice, eat the meats of broken nuts

and acorns These plants also

contribute to good nesting habitat.

How to Get Started

Think of this project as landscaping

for birds. Your goal will be to plant

an assortment of trees, shrubs and

flowers that will attract birds. If you

plan carefully it can be inexpensive

and fun for the whole family. The

best way to get started is to follow

these guidelines:

Decide what types of birds you wish

to attract, then build your plan

around the needs of those species.

Talk to friends and neighbors to

find out what kinds of birds frequent

your area. Attend a local bird

club meeting and talk to local

birdwatchers about how they have

attracted birds to their yards.

Fall-fruiting

Plants

Winter-fruiting

Plants

Nut and Acorn

Plants

Set Your

Priorities

Check with the botany department

of a nearby college or university or

with your state’s natural heritage

program for lists of trees, shrubs,

and wildflowers native to your area.

Use this list as a starting point for

your landscape plan. These plants are

naturally adapted to the climate of

your area and are a good long-term

investment. Many native plants are

both beautiful for landscaping

purposes and excellent for birds.

If you include nonnative plant species

in your plan, be sure they are not

considered “invasive pests” by plant

experts. Check out the bird books in

your local library.

Draw a map of your property to scale

using graph paper. Identify buildings,

sidewalks, power lines, buried cables,

fences, septic tank fields, trees,

shrubs and patios. Consider how

your plan relates to your neighbor’s

property—will the tree you plant

shade out the neighbor’s vegetable

garden? Identify and map sunny or

shady sites, low or wet sites, sandy

sites, and native plants that will be

left in place.

Also identify special views that

you wish to enhance—areas for

pets, benches, picnics, storage,

playing, sledding, vegetable gardens

and paths.

Get your soil tested by your local

garden center, county extension

agent or soil conservation service.

Find out what kinds of soil you have

and then find out if your soils have

nutrient or organic deficiencies that

fertilization or addition of compost

can correct. The soils you have will

help determine the plants which can

be included in your landscaping plan.

47

Use Native

Plants When

Possible

Draw a Map of

Your Property

Get Your Soil

Tested

48

Review the seven plant components

described previously. Which

components are already present?

Which ones are missing? Remember

that you are trying to provide food

and cover through all four seasons.

Develop a list of plants that you think

will provide the missing habitat

components.

Review this plant list with

landscaping resource experts who can

match your ideas with your soil types,

soil drainage and the plants available

through state or private nurseries.

People at the nearby arboretum can

help with your selections. At an

arboretum you can also see what

many plants look like. Talk with local

bird clubs, the members of which

probably are knowledgeable about

landscaping for birds.

Sketch on your map the plants you

wish to add. Draw trees to a scale

that represents three-fourths of their

mature width, and shrubs at their full

mature width. This will help you

calculate how many trees and shrubs

you need. There is a tendency to

include so many trees that eventually

your yard will be mostly shaded. Be

sure to leave open sunny sites where

flowers and shrubs can thrive. Decide

how much money you can spend and

the time span of your project. Don’t

try to do too much at once. You might

try a five-year development plan.

Finally, go to it! Begin your plantings

and include your entire family so they

can all feel they are helping wildlife.

Document your plantings on paper

and by photographs. Try taking

pictures of your yard from the same

spots every year to document the

growth of your plants.

Review the Seven

Plant Habitat

Components

Talk to Resource

Experts

Develop Your

Planting Plan

Implement Your

Plan

Keep your new trees, shrubs and

flowers adequately watered, and keep

your planting areas weed-free by use

of landscaping film and wood chips or

shredded bark mulch. This avoids the

use of herbicides for weed control.

If problems develop with your plants,

consult a local nursery, garden center

or county extension agent.

Make sure to take the time to enjoy

the wildlife that will eventually

respond to your landscaping efforts.

Protecting Bird Habitat

Each year your state wildlife agency,

private conservation groups, the

U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, other

federal agencies, and many private

landowners and business leaders

work together to conserve and

manage millions of acres of habitat—

swamps, forests, ponds and

grasslands. These habitats provide

nesting habitat for songbirds and

shorebirds, ducks and geese, hawks

and owls.

You can make a difference in helping

protect habitats for migratory birds

by joining a national, regional or

local wildlife or habitat conservation

organization. Also, each year

thousands of individuals throughout

the western hemisphere celebrate

International Migratory Bird Day

(IMBD) through bird festivals, walks

and counts. Held annually on the

second Saturday in May, IMBD is

the hallmark event of Partners in

Flight, an international coalition

of federal, state, local government

and non-government agencies and

organizations, industry, the academic

community, and private individuals.

Partners in Flight’s mission is to

reverse the declines of some

49

Maintain Your

Plan

And Finally . . .

50

migratory bird species and raise

awareness of the important role

that migratory birds play in our

lives. Look for an IMBD event in

your area. For more information

about IMBD, Partners in Flight

or migratory bird related issues,

contact U.S. Fish and Wildlife

Service, Division of Migratory Bird

Management, 4401 North Fairfax

Drive, Suite 634, Arlington, VA 22203

or visit http://birds.fws.gov.

Another way that you can help

preserve a disappearing but valuable

natural resource—wetlands—is by

buying Federal Duck Stamps at your

local post office. Money from sales

of these stamps is used to protect

wetlands. For more information,

write U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service,

Federal Duck Stamp Office,

1849 C Street, NW, Washington, DC

20240. http://duckstamps.fws.gov.

All photos copyright Maslowski

Photo, Inc. except as noted.

Additional Resources

A large variety of books are available

on attracting, housing, feeding, and

gardening for birds. Check your local

library, book store, or the Internet,

for a selection of books on attracting

birds to your yard.

There are many good on-line

resources for bird enthusiasts.

Below are a few useful web sites that

discuss some of the more popular

backyard birds; general information

on bird feeding, housing, and

gardening for birds; ways to keep

birds safe from predators; and

opportunities for you to become

citizen scientists just by watching

birds at your feeder.

WildBirds.com—feeding and attracting

http://www.wildbirds.com

Birding/Wild Birds—backyard birds,

birdhouses and feeders

http://www.birding.about.com/hobbies/birding

Backyard Wildlife Habitats—National Wildlife

Federation

http://www.nwf.org/habitats

Cats Indoors—American Birding Conservancy

http://www.abcbirds.org/cats/catsindoors.htm

North American Bluebird Society

http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org

Purple Martin Conservation Association

http://www.purplemartin.org

BirdSource—FeederWatch and Classroom

FeederWatch

http://birdsource.org

National Bird-Feeding Society

http://www.birdfeeding.org/

Stokes Birds at Home/Birding—feeding,

housing, and gardening

http://www.stokesbirdsathome.com/birding

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service intends no

endorsement and cannot guarantee the

accuracy of information found on these web

sites.

51

Books

Web Sites

Disclaimer

http://birds.fws.gov

March 2001

Revised